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Saturday 25 January 2014

Recipe development - Millefeuille of duck

Those of you who are eagerly clinging to my every word may have noticed that I have been foaming lately. I have been (and still am) trying to get my head around foams and writing some rather boring posts about that. How can I make different kinds of foam? I have been following a good class at http://www.chefsteps.com/. This website has a lot of really nice stuff. But nice as it is to read about it, I want to really get to grips with it and develop and understanding of what works and what does not work, so I am testing things out. And there is a specific reason for my foaming. I need a hot duck and orange flavoured foam with the consistency of shaving foam for a recipe I have dreamt up and want to develop.

Millefeuille of duck.

As most of you will know, millefeuille is as dessert consisting of alternating layers of crispy pastry and some form of cream / pastry cream. The picture above is from one we had at the Savoy Grill in London, but it was not served with a rubber duck. I added that "in post".

When we ate at Noma in Copenhagen a few years back, we had one course consisting of crispy chicken skin. It was like a piece of crisp bread, very thin, delicate and crispy. As I was reading about foams a while back I thought "What if I combined equally crispy duck skin with a rich foam?" I love the combination of different textures, it adds a whole new layer to food. Oranges goes well with duck and adds a fresh note. The foam should taste of duck and oranges. And there should of course be duck meat as well.

So this is my vision:

  • A rectangle of utterly crisp duck skin at the bottom. 
  • A layer of a lush, creamy foam tasting of duck and oranges on top of that (a bit like if you make a sauce from duck stock and flavour it with oranges, but as a creamy foam). 
  • Another rectangle of crispy skin.
  • Duck meat (breast and/or confit of leg) on top.
  • Possibly a duck demi-glace somewhere, either on the plate or on top of the meat.
So I need to work out how to do the foam and how to make the skin crispy and nice. I envision doing the meat sous vide. So this is what you will find in my blog for the oversee-able future. Foams and crisp skin. Wish me luck!

And if anyone have ideas, I am open to suggestions.



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