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Wednesday 7 August 2013

Staying at the Savoy - Day two, service and a small crime


Service - the human touch

There is something very special with the old hotels in London. The buildings themselves radiate grandeur, tradition and history. They provide a feeling of solid luxury that has survived the ever changing whims of passing decades and confidently invite us into a world that still is the epitome of elegance. And they can do this because they in many ways defined elegance, luxury and the good life back in the days and they know it still is valid. And the really good ones manage to do this and still feel fresh and updated. This, of course, is especially true for the Savoy which emerged from a total restoration a few years ago and now stand before us old, but brand new. Walking in through the revolving doors is like being taken back in time while taking the present time with you. I am taken into a different world, a parallel universe and it is even as if I am transformed into another person. Perhaps even a better person. And if the best way of enjoying a holiday is to do something different, what could be better than spending that holiday in a entirely different world?

So is that the recipe for making a great hotel? Erecting a building that has certain qualities, looks good and make people go "wow" as they walk in the door? Well, it may be a good start, but it is just a small part of it. And it is even the easiest part. All it requires is enough money. If you throw a huge enough fortune at a building, you can always make it look good. The Savoy recently tried and succeeded when they closed down in December 2007 for a restoration period that lasted until October 2010 and cost  £220 million. But that is not enough. I guarantee that I could take over that gorgeous building and transform it into an absolute terrible hotel without any difficulties. No problem. Because the real valuable assets in great hotels are the people working there, not the building. And the systems they have put in place that allows these people to bloom and flourish. The most important part of a great hotel will always be the human capital.

Nowhere have I seen this more than at the Savoy. Or felt, actually. It gives a feeling of well being, of being looked after, a feeling of being seen and appreciated. It starts with the friendly greeting from the doorman as you arrive. It continues with the warm welcome of the staff member that greets in the Front Hall, and it never stops. Everyone I meet are smiling, warm and friendly. I feel like I want to stop and chat with them, be friends with them. And when I do engage in a bit of small talk, it turns out that they are good that, too. And that is an art form. Being able to conduct a random, but meaningful conversation with anybody. And nothing seems to be any trouble at all. There is a feeling of abundance and generosity. Even though you of course know that you are paying for this. But seeing and feeling that your money is being put to good use helps.

I often read about hotels where the staff remembers your name so that they can address you using your name all the time, and I have always wondered how that would be possible. I have also read that about the Savoy, and I was eager to see it in action. Well, to all of you who now await the solution to the mystery, it did not happen. And how could it? I mean, the Savoy has 268 rooms. If all the staff knew all the names all the time, I would be scared. It only shows that they are human after all. And I must admit that even though many of the staff introduced themselves to me, I can not remember any of their names. But I do believe that if we had stayed more than the two nights, some of the staff would start calling me by name, because I really think they try and want to. And I believe that it will happen easier here than in many other hotels because I feel that one interacts more personally with the staff here.

On this, our day two of staying at the Savoy, I am walking through the hotel noticing the big and small details that are in place allowing the staff to produce this feeling of personal service. Small things like, as I mentioned, they all present themselves by name if you interact with them for more than a few seconds. Also, a small incident in the American Bar as we visit there again this evening shows what I now think of as the small but valuable Savoy ways of doing things. As yesterday, we are escorted to a table by a young lady. She asks my room number and name, but this time saying "Can you remind me of your room number, please." I take that as a sign that she recognised me from yesterday, but could not  for obvious human reasons remember my number and name. Perhaps she would if we had come in the next day as well. Anyway, she goes away and enters my data into some kind of system. Then the waiter comes over. We did not see him yesterday and I doubt that we made such a remarkable appearance that he noticed and memorised us. But he has probably checked the same system and have seen that the same number and name was in here yesterday, so when he comes to our table he is able to say "Welcome back, mr. Moen". Nice.

There are numerous other small details that add to the experience. As I go out running today, I chat a bit with the doorman before setting off. I ask him to come with me, but he declines as he is needed where he is and the top hat would be impractical. And when I return, he is ready with a bottle of water for me. Also nice.

But I think that one of the most important reasons why it all feels so close and personal is not a small detail, but has to do with an important structural change that I believe was done during the rebuild of the hotel. As you walked into the Front Hall before December 2007, you would find to your right what usually defines the reception area of most hotels: the reception counter. The counter over which business transactions are made, which gives a rather formal feeling to the whole setting and that acts like a barrier between the guest and the staff. One thing that happened during the rebuild was that this counter  and barrier disappeared. Now you will find a small desk for the concierge in the same spot.

So where do you go when you need to interact with a member of staff? You have two options. The easiest and most pleasant as you stand there, facing the missing counter is to turn around. And there they are. There are always one or two staff members hovering in the middle of the room. Ready to greet new arrivals or to help anyone that approach them with anything. And as you turn around, chances are that one of them will already have noticed a guest in need and approaches you. And this one-on-one interaction, standing right next to a fellow human being as opposed to talking to a head master mounted behind his desk I think is a vital part of the experience. And if your business requires paper work or the use of a computer terminal, he or she will direct you to the Reading Room for further assistance.

Very nice.

The Savoy Grill


Tonight we have booked a table at the Savoy Grill. The Savoy Grill is an old institution in London. The restaurant was also restored to previous glory as part of the total rebuild of the hotel. It now emerges as an elegant art deco room dominated by huge crystal lamps in the ceiling. As we enter at 7pm, the room is bustling with life. The restaurant is reasonably full, and it seems to fill up entirely during our meal. As we are seated at one of the tables by the inner wall with a good view if the room, we notice that it is absolutely on the chilly side in here. We mention this to the person handing us the menus, and he sets off to deal with the air conditioning. And within a short time, the temperature actually becomes more comfortable.

The menu is dominated by traditional, no-nonsense dishes like steaks, braises, roasts and pies along with good starters and seafood. No modern rubbish, but tradition and quality. My wife orders the onion soup, an attempt to fight off the chilly temperature before the air conditioning is adjusted. I go for the farmhouse terrine with foie gras parfait and green tomato chutney. For our main course we choose the whole roasted Goosenargh duck with artichoke gratin and duck jus. The sommelier suggests a good Bordeaux to complement the duck and sets off to decant it. 

The starters are very good. The duck is then brought to our table whole for us to see before it is once more taken to the kitchen to be carved. It is served as slices of breast and one leg per person. The breasts are beautifully pink, perfectly cooked, tender and with a great taste. The legs remind me of duck confit. Tender, cooked through and the meat almost falling off the bones. As an amateur cook I wonder how they managed that. Pink breasts and legs cooked perfectly. My suspicion is that the legs did not roast with the breasts, but were cooked separately, but I am no expert. We have ordered new potatoes and creamed spinach as side orders, but it turns out that there was no need. The artichoke gratin would have been sufficient.

For desert we go for the Strawberry and almond millefeuille with elderflower ice cream. It is cut table side from a big piece and is absolute delicious. After the desert has been dealt with, we are presented with petit fours. Two pieces each. By now, we are starting to become seriously full. We make sure the bill is put on our room and prepare to leave. Bur our waiter asks us to stay a few minutes and leaves us. Then she returns. The fact that we are here at the Savoy to celebrate our recent 50th birthdays has trickled into the Grill as well, and we are each presented with a small, but filling piece of cake on plates decorated with "Happy Birthday" in chocolate. Somehow we managed to swallow that cake as well. We leave with a rather slow gait.

A smal crime

So is there nothing bad to say? Not much, but there is one thing. One rather serious thing in my opinion. Something that irritates me profoundly. The Savoy charges extra for wifi. There is a daily charge of around £9.50 for the use of the hotel's wifi. I view this as a serious flaw. In the year 2013 hotels do not charge extra for wifi. One just does not. In this day and age I regard this as a small, but serious crime. It is easily dealt with, however. Register in the Fairmount President's Club, and wifi is free. Membership is free as well. But still. It is not the Savoy way. It is out of character. 

Stop it! 

Now!


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